Datasets:

danielv835

/

pf_coach_v0.1

like 1

User (Fly_Molo_23): "Not sure if this is the best place to post this, please let me know if I should cross post anywhere, thank you.\n\nI am a facilities constitution manager for a major hospital in a major med center. At $73,000 I am aware that I am well underpaid. I have long time friends in the industry and we talk. Taking the job made sense for me two years ago because it allowed me to get into a management position.\n\nI have been looking for better opportunities and I had a very good first interview with a great company that I have direct experience with as a contractor years ago. The position is exactly what I'm doing now. I have been invited to a second interview next week to meet with upper management. I am not getting ahead of myself and assuming I have the job, but I do feel good about my chances so for the purpose of this post I'm going to pretend that I'all be getting an offer. My question is - how do I get the most out of that offer?\n\nFurther info - oil and gas. Fortune 100, massive company. I am very confident that they pay much better than my current organization. On the phone before my first interview, the recruiting lady asked me what I made and I told her. Perhaps I shouldn't have done that, please don't beat me up over that if that is the case. What's done is done.\n\nSo, since they know what I make, how do I handle it if I feel like they are trying to low ball me because of my current low pay?\n\nAlso, a friend of mine works for the company, different department. During the last phase of his interview, he says the recruiter more or less asked him "what do you want to be paid?" And the negotiation started there. Should I shoot high? If I come out of this with $85k I will be very happy. If asked, should I say $90k?\n\nHelp me out. Sorry for rambling. Thank you!" Self: "Remember this is a buyer's market. There are 30 other people who?will happy tske their?offer and they know that" User (Fly_Molo_23): "Absolutely! My nightmare is them wanting to offer me, me naming my price, them saying thanks for coming."

User (Fly_Molo_23): "Not sure if this is the best place to post this, please let me know if I should cross post anywhere, thank you.\n\nI am a facilities constitution manager for a major hospital in a major med center. At $73,000 I am aware that I am well underpaid. I have long time friends in the industry and we talk. Taking the job made sense for me two years ago because it allowed me to get into a management position.\n\nI have been looking for better opportunities and I had a very good first interview with a great company that I have direct experience with as a contractor years ago. The position is exactly what I'm doing now. I have been invited to a second interview next week to meet with upper management. I am not getting ahead of myself and assuming I have the job, but I do feel good about my chances so for the purpose of this post I'm going to pretend that I'all be getting an offer. My question is - how do I get the most out of that offer?\n\nFurther info - oil and gas. Fortune 100, massive company. I am very confident that they pay much better than my current organization. On the phone before my first interview, the recruiting lady asked me what I made and I told her. Perhaps I shouldn't have done that, please don't beat me up over that if that is the case. What's done is done.\n\nSo, since they know what I make, how do I handle it if I feel like they are trying to low ball me because of my current low pay?\n\nAlso, a friend of mine works for the company, different department. During the last phase of his interview, he says the recruiter more or less asked him "what do you want to be paid?" And the negotiation started there. Should I shoot high? If I come out of this with $85k I will be very happy. If asked, should I say $90k?\n\nHelp me out. Sorry for rambling. Thank you!" Self: "Remember this is a buyer's market. There are 30 other people who?will happy tske their?offer and they know that" IolausTelcontar (IolausTelcontar): "Who said its a buyer's market?" Self: "Anyone who goes in linkedin and sees 100 application for professional jobs within 48 hours" IolausTelcontar (IolausTelcontar): "For this guy's specific job?"

User (dantheman213): "Hey guys! I'm from California and I have a charge from the CITY OF LOS ANGELES FIRE DEPT on my credit from a year ago. It's about $1000 and I have no idea where this came from. I tried disputing it through Credit Karma as well as Transunion itself. It's not listed on Equifax. \n\nBoth times I got back the debt was "verified". I called the collection agency and they have no information about the debt. In fact, the guy wanted me to give my SSN over the phone in order to help identify the account in question. I told him no and he could look me up from other information. Is that even legal? Anyhow, I also called the original creditor but got a run around in phone syhstems. \n\nI'm not sure how to proceed to have this charge removed? I think it's a mistake or someone stole my information. I don't even know what the charge would even be for considering who the original creditor is. How do you even end up owning $1000 to a fire department anyways? (I've never had any fire services called)." Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Reports](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_reports) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (dantheman213): "Hey guys! I'm from California and I have a charge from the CITY OF LOS ANGELES FIRE DEPT on my credit from a year ago. It's about $1000 and I have no idea where this came from. I tried disputing it through Credit Karma as well as Transunion itself. It's not listed on Equifax. \n\nBoth times I got back the debt was "verified". I called the collection agency and they have no information about the debt. In fact, the guy wanted me to give my SSN over the phone in order to help identify the account in question. I told him no and he could look me up from other information. Is that even legal? Anyhow, I also called the original creditor but got a run around in phone syhstems. \n\nI'm not sure how to proceed to have this charge removed? I think it's a mistake or someone stole my information. I don't even know what the charge would even be for considering who the original creditor is. How do you even end up owning $1000 to a fire department anyways? (I've never had any fire services called)." Self: "This is why you never dispute online, but dispute via mail.\n\nSend a debt verification letter to the OC and send it via USPS CRR. Keep a copy of the dispute letter.\n\nWait for thirty days and if thy haven't responded or haven't properly verified the debt, send another letter(to the OC) demanding removal.\n\nAdditionally, send a letter demanding removal to the CRAs with accompanying proof od the failure to verify."

User (karina314): "Hi all, \n\nI finished my undergrad this past June. Landed an emergency teaching job this year. Will be getting my credential starting in the summer of 2017 in order to continue teaching. This year I'm making 45k, every year it goes up a little. I'm posting because I have a pretty good handle on finances but have no idea what to do about my student loans.\n\nI've no debt except my federal student loans, just got myself out of my CC debt. I have currently $15,926.31 in federal loans. They're all with the same service with interest ranging from 3.4% to 4.6% interest. While in grace, I was making monthly $400 payments to my higher interest loan groups. However, I'm wondering if this is the best option for me. I would like to get out of debt but if I can save money by making the minimum payments until the teacher loan forgiveness kicks in I'd like to do that. \n\nI also know that I'll be adding worst case 10k in student loans to pay for my credential, I'm currently saving to bring that number down. \n\nMonthly take home is about $3k, I put away $1500 in savings (I've got a nice 6 month emergency fund and am now just adding to that), about $800 in food/rent/bills, and the leftover $700 or so used to go towards my CC debt but that's all paid off so that's my fun/more towards savings money. \n\nAny folks here know what the best repayment plan would be for me? I am still in school part time to help my younger sister financial aid wise and I'm starting the credential program in June so my loans will be in deferment I believe. Should I keep paying $400 a month for the next 40+ months? Should I consolidate to have one interest rate? Am I even eligible for PAYE or any of those programs since I'm not technically in repayment yet? Should I let the interest pile up and wait for loan forgiveness? \n\nI'm just wondering what would be the most beneficial long term?\n" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Student Loans wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/studentloans)\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (karina314): "Hi all, \n\nI finished my undergrad this past June. Landed an emergency teaching job this year. Will be getting my credential starting in the summer of 2017 in order to continue teaching. This year I'm making 45k, every year it goes up a little. I'm posting because I have a pretty good handle on finances but have no idea what to do about my student loans.\n\nI've no debt except my federal student loans, just got myself out of my CC debt. I have currently $15,926.31 in federal loans. They're all with the same service with interest ranging from 3.4% to 4.6% interest. While in grace, I was making monthly $400 payments to my higher interest loan groups. However, I'm wondering if this is the best option for me. I would like to get out of debt but if I can save money by making the minimum payments until the teacher loan forgiveness kicks in I'd like to do that. \n\nI also know that I'll be adding worst case 10k in student loans to pay for my credential, I'm currently saving to bring that number down. \n\nMonthly take home is about $3k, I put away $1500 in savings (I've got a nice 6 month emergency fund and am now just adding to that), about $800 in food/rent/bills, and the leftover $700 or so used to go towards my CC debt but that's all paid off so that's my fun/more towards savings money. \n\nAny folks here know what the best repayment plan would be for me? I am still in school part time to help my younger sister financial aid wise and I'm starting the credential program in June so my loans will be in deferment I believe. Should I keep paying $400 a month for the next 40+ months? Should I consolidate to have one interest rate? Am I even eligible for PAYE or any of those programs since I'm not technically in repayment yet? Should I let the interest pile up and wait for loan forgiveness? \n\nI'm just wondering what would be the most beneficial long term?\n" Self: "Given the low loan balance relative to your income, even if you add an additional $10,000, it's unlikely that PSLF would actually be of any help. You may be able to make use of TLF, but note that special requirements must be met to receive the higher forgiven amount instead of the lower amount.\n\n> Should I consolidate to have one interest rate?\n\nConsolidating federal loans to federal loans will not lower your interest rate. You would only do this if your loans do not qualify for TLF (or PSLF) and you want to make use of the program. \n\nConsolidating from federal loans to private loans makes you ineligible for all federal student loan benefits.\n\n> Am I even eligible for PAYE or any of those programs since I'm not technically in repayment yet?\n\nI don't believe that you can enroll on a repayment plan if you are not in repayment status, but even so, PAYE (and IBR) require you to have a "partial financial hardship" so you may not even qualify. Note that REPAYE does not have a hardship requirement, but under that plan you will always pay 10% of your discretionary income, even if that amount is higher than the 10-year standard repayment plan (PAYE and IBR will be capped to the amount required by the 10-year plan if after annual income recertification it turns out that you would pay more than the 10-year plan).\n\n> I'm just wondering what would be the most beneficial long term?\n\nGiven the relatively small loan, you might as well just continue paying it off as quickly as possible. As you already have a 6 month emergency fund, you can redirect some or all of that $1,500 per month to the loan."

User (RolandClaptrap): "Ive been buying and selling on robin hood. I know it's more beneficial to sell after a year of having the stock, but I don't have enough in there to worry about getting taxes more for now. I have a mix of long term and short term investments.\n\nMy question is, do you report gains when th money you put in is not withdrawn but sitting in a different stock or maybe even just the brokerage account available to withdraw?\n\nI know I will find out when my documents are ready I'm just wondering what to expect." Self: "Doesn't matter when you withdraw, only when stuff is bought and sold."

User (RolandClaptrap): "Ive been buying and selling on robin hood. I know it's more beneficial to sell after a year of having the stock, but I don't have enough in there to worry about getting taxes more for now. I have a mix of long term and short term investments.\n\nMy question is, do you report gains when th money you put in is not withdrawn but sitting in a different stock or maybe even just the brokerage account available to withdraw?\n\nI know I will find out when my documents are ready I'm just wondering what to expect." Self: "whenever you have capital gains...that gain is taxed whether or not its sitting in a trading account or new stock was bought with it...so be prepared to pay the tax man as that gain will be reported to the IRS"

User (RolandClaptrap): "Ive been buying and selling on robin hood. I know it's more beneficial to sell after a year of having the stock, but I don't have enough in there to worry about getting taxes more for now. I have a mix of long term and short term investments.\n\nMy question is, do you report gains when th money you put in is not withdrawn but sitting in a different stock or maybe even just the brokerage account available to withdraw?\n\nI know I will find out when my documents are ready I'm just wondering what to expect." Self: "Yes, you report capital gains, because you realized them. Whether you withdraw the gains out of your account isn't relevant.\n\nYou'll get a summary of your capital gains for the year from Robinhood. Use that to fill out Schedule D when you do your taxes. They say February.\n\nhttps://support.robinhood.com/hc/en-us/articles/210216743-Tax-Center\n\nYou probably can figure out a close idea of your gains: Compare the amount you paid to buy something and the amount you got when you sold it. On Schedule D you separate out short-term gains and long-term gains, because they have different tax treatments."

User (exc3ll3nt): "Me and my husband each have loans out in our names. \n\nI have an owing balance of roughly $800, repayments at $30 per week, and he has an owing amount of around $9,000, repayments at $100 per week. Although the loans are out under different names we are paying them off together. \n\nOur local credit union is offering a Christmas loan of $1000 with a tiny amount of interest (I cannot quote exactly but it's ridiculously smaller than our loans interest rate). We are wondering if it is worth trying to access this amount to pay off the remainder of my loan and close that account and put the leftover toward my husbands account. \n\nBy the way these are fixed rate loans but there are no penalties for early repayment. \n\nEdit: Forgot to mention, although I do not know the interest rate of the Christmas loan, it is a repayment of $20 per week. " Self: "If the interest rate is lower, sure. You should keep making big payments and pay this off fast, though, not slow at $20 a week."

User (exc3ll3nt): "Me and my husband each have loans out in our names. \n\nI have an owing balance of roughly $800, repayments at $30 per week, and he has an owing amount of around $9,000, repayments at $100 per week. Although the loans are out under different names we are paying them off together. \n\nOur local credit union is offering a Christmas loan of $1000 with a tiny amount of interest (I cannot quote exactly but it's ridiculously smaller than our loans interest rate). We are wondering if it is worth trying to access this amount to pay off the remainder of my loan and close that account and put the leftover toward my husbands account. \n\nBy the way these are fixed rate loans but there are no penalties for early repayment. \n\nEdit: Forgot to mention, although I do not know the interest rate of the Christmas loan, it is a repayment of $20 per week. " Self: "Unsecured lines of credit which don't report back to the credit bureau are great for debt consolidation.... in my opinion."

User (mariethegreat): "I tried just putting his info in credit karma, but lo and behold you have to be 18. So that leads me to ask if there's a way to check the credit history for my child?\n\nI ask because I have full custody, and he's only ever seen his biological father twice in his life. Father is under child support wage garnishments and I feel he resents everything about the situation.\n\nI don't want to wait until my kid turns 18 to be able to find out if the father opened any lines of credit in his name for 'revenge'. " Self: "[Requesting a credit freeze for a minor](http://www.experian.com/blogs/ask-experian/requesting-a-security-freeze-for-a-minor-childs-credit-report/)"

User (mariethegreat): "I tried just putting his info in credit karma, but lo and behold you have to be 18. So that leads me to ask if there's a way to check the credit history for my child?\n\nI ask because I have full custody, and he's only ever seen his biological father twice in his life. Father is under child support wage garnishments and I feel he resents everything about the situation.\n\nI don't want to wait until my kid turns 18 to be able to find out if the father opened any lines of credit in his name for 'revenge'. " Self: "Doesn't matter to your child if any accounts were opened while they were a minor, as accounts are not considered legal or valid if the person on the account isn't an adult." SrSkippy (SrSkippy): "Sure, but then you're set back five years of dealing with this and proving it to get it off your credit report... " Self: "How is providing a birth certificate going to take 5 years? " SrSkippy (SrSkippy): "It should be that easy, but it never is in reality."

User (danakroyd187): "So, one of my housemates has run into some financial problems and can't afford to pay his rent or utilities. AFAIK, the rent shouldn't be an issue for me since I'm paid up. But I can't afford to pay his utilities (all of the utilities are in my name), and I'm concerned about service being shut off and damages to my credit. \n\nIf any of you guys here can give some advice, I'd really appreciate it :(" Self: "Tell him to move out and find a sublet. "

User (danakroyd187): "So, one of my housemates has run into some financial problems and can't afford to pay his rent or utilities. AFAIK, the rent shouldn't be an issue for me since I'm paid up. But I can't afford to pay his utilities (all of the utilities are in my name), and I'm concerned about service being shut off and damages to my credit. \n\nIf any of you guys here can give some advice, I'd really appreciate it :(" Self: "find a new room mate ASAP...this problem won't go away"

User (danakroyd187): "So, one of my housemates has run into some financial problems and can't afford to pay his rent or utilities. AFAIK, the rent shouldn't be an issue for me since I'm paid up. But I can't afford to pay his utilities (all of the utilities are in my name), and I'm concerned about service being shut off and damages to my credit. \n\nIf any of you guys here can give some advice, I'd really appreciate it :(" Self: "You are pretty SOL. You could try suing your roommate in small claims court, but that's about it.\n\nI would recommend talking to your roommates and saying that you're no longer comfortable having the utilities in your name. Close the accounts and ask the roommate to open them up in his and pay him." User (danakroyd187): "Thanks. I agree about spreading the utilities around a bit."

User (danakroyd187): "So, one of my housemates has run into some financial problems and can't afford to pay his rent or utilities. AFAIK, the rent shouldn't be an issue for me since I'm paid up. But I can't afford to pay his utilities (all of the utilities are in my name), and I'm concerned about service being shut off and damages to my credit. \n\nIf any of you guys here can give some advice, I'd really appreciate it :(" Self: "Does you housemate recognize his problem? First have a house meeting. Then contact the landlord to see if he would be ok with a sublet and start hunting for a new roommate. If your lease is near expiration of is month to month, exit the situation.\n\nIf the utilities are in your name, they are your responsibility. \n\n" User (danakroyd187): "The situation hasn't come to a head just yet. I just wanted to know what i could do if worst came to worst. Subletting sounds like a good idea."

User (dgathrow6): "If I own a sole managed LLC (or even a corporation), and I have personal credit card debt, how would those creditors track down my business name?\n\nDo they find it from the IRS as the responsible party of the EIN?\nDo they find it from the state as the registered agent of the business?\nDo they find it from the business bank account as a signer on the account?\nAll or none of the above?\n\n" Self: "They can search through the Secretary of State website for any state. When they search your name, any companies that you have used your name to set up will be there. " User (dgathrow6): "And if my name is very common, such as "Jim Smith", and 50 people and companies come up... then what?"

User (dgathrow6): "If I own a sole managed LLC (or even a corporation), and I have personal credit card debt, how would those creditors track down my business name?\n\nDo they find it from the IRS as the responsible party of the EIN?\nDo they find it from the state as the registered agent of the business?\nDo they find it from the business bank account as a signer on the account?\nAll or none of the above?\n\n" Self: "its all very easy to do...." User (dgathrow6): "Thanks for the valuable input..." Self: "just saying financial institutions and credit collectors have many ways of finding and locating deadbeats...."

User (dgathrow6): "If I own a sole managed LLC (or even a corporation), and I have personal credit card debt, how would those creditors track down my business name?\n\nDo they find it from the IRS as the responsible party of the EIN?\nDo they find it from the state as the registered agent of the business?\nDo they find it from the business bank account as a signer on the account?\nAll or none of the above?\n\n" Self: "There are many online databases that institutions can use for a monthly fee to collect all public records linked to an individual such as Secretary of State filings, known employers or positions held (i.e. President, CEO, etc). Basically if you owned a company your name is attached to it in public records and can be accessed by anyone who knows where to look. As for the common name question, information on those filings would at least include addresses, dates of birth, and sometime social security numbers so figuring out which one is you is pretty easy. "

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "~~Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.~~\n\nMissed that. No, renter protection requires something like 30 days before eviction. They're trying to prevent you from doing something stupid (dropping out). Your locality is important to the legal ramifications, some places it's harder to evict than others.\n\nYou are not financially independent.\n\nYou should not move out.\n\nYou very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nThey are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. " User (strandedwithfamily): ">Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.\n\nThere is an actual document with my name and signature. \n\n>You are not financially independent.\n\nI pay rent and all necessary things asked by them. Please (I'm not being sarcastic in the slightest) tell me what you mean by this. \n\n>You should not move out.\n\nI agree with you but I have no choice. \n\n>You very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nI have to adapt as I cannot live in a verbally abusive environment. I'm losing hair because of the stress and having what I think are panic attacks (trembling, numb hands and feeling out of air when being verbally abused which makes me look pathetic and I want out of that environment) \n\n>They are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. \n\nI don't have a special talent. I'm just an average guy. \n\n " constantino1 (constantino1): "> There is an actual document with my name and signature.\n\nthis is important though... what does this document say? if its simply a month to month lease agreement, you can be evicted with 30-60 days of notice.\n\nDifferent than if its a 12 month lease term and you are 2 months into it." Self: "Yeah. I have no idea whether or not he could be kicked w/o a lease, but many areas favor protection of a tenant and the eviction process is a nightmare." constantino1 (constantino1): "problem is, its not clear whether he is *their* tenant. Or is it an apartment and his lease agreement is with the landlord and his sister is his equal in this matter." Self: "If he has a copy of a formal lease, even if he's *their* tenant, then it doesn't matter who he's renting from. They'd still need to go through the legal process. I'm not a lawyer, so obviously it's with a grain of salt. The process *should* still be the same as long as it's a binding lease agreement.\n\nIf he's equal parts with them under a landlord then I *guess* he technically has more leverage; I don't know if he would be able to prevent changes to the lease (such as them moving out) by not signing. I know that when I changed a lease with co-leasers, we all had to sign for it to be binding with the complex." constantino1 (constantino1): "it matters a bit, as if it is a month to month lease, the landlord can evict with 1-2 months notice, so it depends if the sister is the landlord, or if its some other 3rd party, meaning she cant force him out (legally of course, she can still get all jerry springer and toss his shit on the curb)" Self: "Oh then yes. My only point was that they can't kick him out '.. the next day'."

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "You won't be able to live on your own. But why not just find another place to rent a room? At least you will get a way from the abusive environment. And you might be able to find something for less than $350/month." User (strandedwithfamily): "I might have to find a roommate. I think it's the most reasonable choice. "

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "~~Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.~~\n\nMissed that. No, renter protection requires something like 30 days before eviction. They're trying to prevent you from doing something stupid (dropping out). Your locality is important to the legal ramifications, some places it's harder to evict than others.\n\nYou are not financially independent.\n\nYou should not move out.\n\nYou very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nThey are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. " User (strandedwithfamily): ">Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.\n\nThere is an actual document with my name and signature. \n\n>You are not financially independent.\n\nI pay rent and all necessary things asked by them. Please (I'm not being sarcastic in the slightest) tell me what you mean by this. \n\n>You should not move out.\n\nI agree with you but I have no choice. \n\n>You very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nI have to adapt as I cannot live in a verbally abusive environment. I'm losing hair because of the stress and having what I think are panic attacks (trembling, numb hands and feeling out of air when being verbally abused which makes me look pathetic and I want out of that environment) \n\n>They are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. \n\nI don't have a special talent. I'm just an average guy. \n\n " constantino1 (constantino1): "> There is an actual document with my name and signature.\n\nthis is important though... what does this document say? if its simply a month to month lease agreement, you can be evicted with 30-60 days of notice.\n\nDifferent than if its a 12 month lease term and you are 2 months into it." Self: "Yeah. I have no idea whether or not he could be kicked w/o a lease, but many areas favor protection of a tenant and the eviction process is a nightmare." constantino1 (constantino1): "problem is, its not clear whether he is *their* tenant. Or is it an apartment and his lease agreement is with the landlord and his sister is his equal in this matter." User (strandedwithfamily): "I'm the landlord's tenant. They included me in the lease along with them. "

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "~~Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.~~\n\nMissed that. No, renter protection requires something like 30 days before eviction. They're trying to prevent you from doing something stupid (dropping out). Your locality is important to the legal ramifications, some places it's harder to evict than others.\n\nYou are not financially independent.\n\nYou should not move out.\n\nYou very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nThey are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. " User (strandedwithfamily): ">Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.\n\nThere is an actual document with my name and signature. \n\n>You are not financially independent.\n\nI pay rent and all necessary things asked by them. Please (I'm not being sarcastic in the slightest) tell me what you mean by this. \n\n>You should not move out.\n\nI agree with you but I have no choice. \n\n>You very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nI have to adapt as I cannot live in a verbally abusive environment. I'm losing hair because of the stress and having what I think are panic attacks (trembling, numb hands and feeling out of air when being verbally abused which makes me look pathetic and I want out of that environment) \n\n>They are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. \n\nI don't have a special talent. I'm just an average guy. \n\n " constantino1 (constantino1): "> There is an actual document with my name and signature.\n\nthis is important though... what does this document say? if its simply a month to month lease agreement, you can be evicted with 30-60 days of notice.\n\nDifferent than if its a 12 month lease term and you are 2 months into it." User (strandedwithfamily): "Says I'm a part of the 12 month lease. " constantino1 (constantino1): "then legally you can only be evicted by the landlord with proper cause or at the end of the lease agreement. End of story.\n\nRealistically, your sister can make your life a living hell, and so long as you are dependent on her half of the rent, you cant continue without her willing support."

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "financially, moving out before you even finish HS will not start your life out on a strong foundation. Not that a HS degree is worth much, but a GED is worth even less. Assuming you ever bother to get one, you'll be so busy living hand to mouth, its unlikely you'll find time to tackle that.\n\nTo answer your question though, If your name is on the lease, they cannot kick you out without a lawsuit that would require cause, lack of payment, violence, or some other breach of the lease agreement. lacking that, legally, they are stuck with you, until the lease is up, at which time THEY can move out (which assuming you cant afford the rent alone, would leave you homeless)\n\nSo, not putting the cart before the horse,finish school (we're only talking another 5 months arent we?) then see what kind of jobs you can secure. unfortunately low paying jobs tend to be unreliable and inconsistant. they are the kind of jobs that you can get fired from at the drop of a hat, or your hours can be cut, because well... your expendable, you can be easily replaced. Its not a great place to be when you have no safety net." buffer_overflown (buffer_overflown): "Something about this doesn't jive though. OP is talking about verbal abuse, but the family is right about the GED vs completing High School piece. They care a little, and I'm actually kind of wondering if OP wouldn't be better served chipping in more around the house.\n\nEdit:\n\nI bring this up because I knew someone who had a tendency to make *remarkably* stupid decisions. She'd decided to 'live with some friends' who then, very reasonably, got upset about her not paying rent after two months. Blamed it on them because clearly they weren't doing enough for her.\n\nI'm not suggesting OP is lazy or malicious, but OP may simple *not be aware* that there's something they're lacking in their day-to-day." User (strandedwithfamily): "I've never missed rent or any of my chores. They are very complicated people. "

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "You should be graduating this year, right?\n\nSuck it up and say there the next six months. GED is not the same as HS diploma in the eyes of employers. It'll make your life more difficult. \n\nHow much is a 1bd apartment in your area? To give you an idea, most landlords require you make 3x the cost of your rent to lease you a place. Do you have this income? \n\n"

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "financially, moving out before you even finish HS will not start your life out on a strong foundation. Not that a HS degree is worth much, but a GED is worth even less. Assuming you ever bother to get one, you'll be so busy living hand to mouth, its unlikely you'll find time to tackle that.\n\nTo answer your question though, If your name is on the lease, they cannot kick you out without a lawsuit that would require cause, lack of payment, violence, or some other breach of the lease agreement. lacking that, legally, they are stuck with you, until the lease is up, at which time THEY can move out (which assuming you cant afford the rent alone, would leave you homeless)\n\nSo, not putting the cart before the horse,finish school (we're only talking another 5 months arent we?) then see what kind of jobs you can secure. unfortunately low paying jobs tend to be unreliable and inconsistant. they are the kind of jobs that you can get fired from at the drop of a hat, or your hours can be cut, because well... your expendable, you can be easily replaced. Its not a great place to be when you have no safety net." buffer_overflown (buffer_overflown): "Something about this doesn't jive though. OP is talking about verbal abuse, but the family is right about the GED vs completing High School piece. They care a little, and I'm actually kind of wondering if OP wouldn't be better served chipping in more around the house.\n\nEdit:\n\nI bring this up because I knew someone who had a tendency to make *remarkably* stupid decisions. She'd decided to 'live with some friends' who then, very reasonably, got upset about her not paying rent after two months. Blamed it on them because clearly they weren't doing enough for her.\n\nI'm not suggesting OP is lazy or malicious, but OP may simple *not be aware* that there's something they're lacking in their day-to-day." Self: "between you and me, absolutely. living with his sister and her boyfriend at 18, well, without getting on my high horse, its already less than ideal as far as where are the parents in this equation. It unlikely OP is coming at this with the best decision making paradigm.\n\nto me, to be 18 and not even graduate HS... well... that is unthinkable, that is a world i dont live in, so I cannot understand it. I shudder at the hardships likely to come, but as you said, he doesnt know what he doesnt know." buffer_overflown (buffer_overflown): "I did the *exact* same thing ~17. It had really come time to leave home because the friction was pretty intense, but relationships between my family and I are great now.\n\nLooking back at 18, I was a moron. In ten years, I'll look back at [/u/buffer_overflown's age] and think I was a moron."

User (strandedwithfamily): "I live with my sister and brother in law in their apartment. I pay $350 per month which is 50% of my monthly salary. \n\nMy goal is to move to a room by myself and away from them while not having to go hungry because I don't have enough money. I'm thinking about dropping out of school and move on to full time to move out quicker (get my GED later) but they said the moment I do that they will kick me out the next day, however, they also want me to move out. \n\n- Can they really kick me out if I pay rent and can it be done the very next day? (my name is on the lease if it helps) \n\n- What are my options as an 18 year old to smooth out the process of becoming independent with no savings and/or assets?\n\nIf you have any questions I'll answer them all just somebody please help me. I didn't write out a full backstory to not elongate the post but I will if it provides help.\n\nZip code is 70124" Self: "~~Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.~~\n\nMissed that. No, renter protection requires something like 30 days before eviction. They're trying to prevent you from doing something stupid (dropping out). Your locality is important to the legal ramifications, some places it's harder to evict than others.\n\nYou are not financially independent.\n\nYou should not move out.\n\nYou very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nThey are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. " User (strandedwithfamily): ">Do you have an actual lease document? Because I doubt it, and that would provide formal protection.\n\nThere is an actual document with my name and signature. \n\n>You are not financially independent.\n\nI pay rent and all necessary things asked by them. Please (I'm not being sarcastic in the slightest) tell me what you mean by this. \n\n>You should not move out.\n\nI agree with you but I have no choice. \n\n>You very likely are not prepared to live on your own, and this question and its contents speak very strongly to that.\n\nI have to adapt as I cannot live in a verbally abusive environment. I'm losing hair because of the stress and having what I think are panic attacks (trembling, numb hands and feeling out of air when being verbally abused which makes me look pathetic and I want out of that environment) \n\n>They are suggesting you complete HS because it's a better call than a GED unless you have some overwhelming talent that I'm unaware of. \n\nI don't have a special talent. I'm just an average guy. \n\n " Self: "> financially independent\n\nNo, as someone who's lived below the poverty line, $700 a month is very much insufficient, and the rate you're paying is extremely low for digs. Unless that rate is standard for your area.\n\nYou could try finding someone who will rent a bedroom to you, but none of the contents of your post suggest financial independence; e.g., as brutal as it sounds, the average person would not cosign a lease with you or consider you a reliable renter.\n\nThe verbal abuse you're speaking of is subjective, and I really can't comment on that. I'm only speaking to your financial state.\n\nAt the end of the day, I dropped out of college my junior year; a couple years later, and I've just purchased a house because my income supports it; sometimes other people (including me) are wrong, and you really could drop out-- but I would suggest lining up full time employment AND a new residence before notifying them of any of that.\n\nYou're an adult now, and your personal business is yours to disclose as you see fit." User (strandedwithfamily): "If I drop out I could do two part times for at least 50 hours per week. That could put me well within being a reliable renter, no? " Self: "Couldn't tell you. Good rule of thumb, unless you know better, is that your rental costs should be 30% or less of your income. I've broken that rule plenty successfully in the past, so I'd say it's more of a healthy target than anything.\n\nI'm going to be totally honest and say that something seems off about this; your family is saying that they'll kick you out if you drop high school and 'maybe eventually get a GED', and you're complaining about verbal abuse when they really wouldn't do that unless they cared on *some* level. Yeah, they probably want you out, but I would suggest something alternative-- be a bigger person and start doing additional chores around the house and make yourself useful. I don't need you to inform me whether or not you do already; whatever you think you're doing may not be enough, so elevate it.\n\nYou only have a short while left of HS, all told. Stick with it and wrap it up. I promise you the GED route is going to be a long way around.\n\nI'm not saying they're good people, but I can't define whether or not I think your grievances are real without knowing more [and that's not my business].\n\n" User (strandedwithfamily): ">Couldn't tell you. Good rule of thumb, unless you know better, is that your rental costs should be 30% or less of your income. I've broken that rule plenty successfully in the past, so I'd say it's more of a healthy target than anything.\n\n>I'm going to be totally honest and say that something seems off about this; your family is saying that they'll kick you out if you drop high school and 'maybe eventually get a GED', and you're complaining about verbal abuse when they really wouldn't do that unless they cared on *some* level. Yeah, they probably want you out, but I would suggest something alternative-- be a bigger person and start doing additional chores around the house and make yourself useful. I don't need you to inform me whether or not you do already; whatever you think you're doing may not be enough, so elevate it.\n\nI do plenty of chores around the house. But say I leave the toilet seat up one day, that means I don't care about anything at all. I always have to walk on egg shells never knowing what I could do that would potentially piss them off. They are very complicated people as said by the people they associate themselves with and things I've noticed about them. \n\nThey do care about me but the way they demonstrate that love is something I want nothing to do with because I care about my emotional health. \n\nI don't want to burn any bridges. I'm sure they are all nice and dandy but we can't live together anymore. I'm afraid I'll slip into a depression and not care about anything anymore. Im sure we could all treat each other nicely if we had some distance between us. That was exactly why my sister left my dad's house - - they couldn't live together but they love each other to death \n\n>You only have a short while left of HS, all told. Stick with it and wrap it up. I promise you the GED route is going to be a long way around.\n\nMy chances of graduating are very slim this year. \n\n>I'm not saying they're good people, but I can't define whether or not I think your grievances are real without knowing more [and that's not my business].\n\nThey're good people but they're good people I can't live with if you know what I mean.\n\n" Self: "I get you, but if your grades have been historically bad (enough that you risk failing) *something is going on, on your end*. \n\nWhether it's you, your life situation, or whatever it is [likely a combination of the above] **is not my place to say**, but I really really genuinely believe that there are things you can do, because I think you're missing something[s] important that you're not realizing, and that the phenomena may have been historically endemic.\n\nThe fact that they're frustrated with simple issues points to a larger point of contention that may have never been addressed, and they're trying to do right by you. The fact that your grades have been that poor suggests that they are not the only originators of the problem, and that at least some portion of responsibility lays with you, and it seems to me that you're avoiding it.\n\nAt the end of the day, I have quite literally nothing else to say; I want to see you pull through whatever is going on, but it requires a level of introspection that not many people have at 18. When I was 17/18 I was a moron, and in ten years I'll think the 10-year-younger-me was equally a moron."

User (Never12Commit): "Recently got a new job and am making significantly more than previously and have decided I want to purchase a used luxery sedan which I plan on financing 20k of it. Ive always lived in a nice apartment downtown but planned on purchasing a home next summer. My credit score is around the mid 700s, I make around 80k a year prior to taxes. My question is will financing this car look bad when I decide to apply for a mortgage even though I will make enough to pay off both and still save? Looking to finance around 220k for the home after 20% down. " Self: "The only thing the loan will probably do is change your debt to income ratio, limiting the amount of money you have get for said mortgage "

User (Never12Commit): "Recently got a new job and am making significantly more than previously and have decided I want to purchase a used luxery sedan which I plan on financing 20k of it. Ive always lived in a nice apartment downtown but planned on purchasing a home next summer. My credit score is around the mid 700s, I make around 80k a year prior to taxes. My question is will financing this car look bad when I decide to apply for a mortgage even though I will make enough to pay off both and still save? Looking to finance around 220k for the home after 20% down. " Self: "Thst should be fine as long as your DTI is still low.\n\nPeople get in trouble for doing this when they finance a vehicle so close to financing a home because it changes your credit which thr lender may not agree with."

User (Never12Commit): "Recently got a new job and am making significantly more than previously and have decided I want to purchase a used luxery sedan which I plan on financing 20k of it. Ive always lived in a nice apartment downtown but planned on purchasing a home next summer. My credit score is around the mid 700s, I make around 80k a year prior to taxes. My question is will financing this car look bad when I decide to apply for a mortgage even though I will make enough to pay off both and still save? Looking to finance around 220k for the home after 20% down. " Self: "Probably not, no. That would be a $1300 mortgage payment, something like that. Combined with a $400 car payment, that would be still 25% of your gross, so you're fine unless you have some big student loans or credit card bills in there. " User (Never12Commit): "No student loans or credit card debts thankfully. Thanks for the input thats what I was hoping to hear but google gave me mixed reviews as usual." Self: "Lenders will want to see that your new income level seems to be pretty well established, so keep that in mind when you do finally apply. " User (Never12Commit): "I will have been receiving my new income for almost a year when I am ready to buy a house so that should be significant history Id imagine."

User (Conor1028): "My dad started a Roth IRA through his financial advisor for me when I was in college. I graduated about 3 years ago and am currently putting in about $150 dollars a month in, but I recently watched the John Oliver segment and am worried that his fees might be too high and if it might be a better move to switch to Vanguard. Should I simply email him asking for a report of his fees, or is there a specific form I should ask for that will have all of the desired information?" Self: " A contact number is likely on your statement\n\nThere should be a disclosure articulating all the fees. "

User (Conor1028): "My dad started a Roth IRA through his financial advisor for me when I was in college. I graduated about 3 years ago and am currently putting in about $150 dollars a month in, but I recently watched the John Oliver segment and am worried that his fees might be too high and if it might be a better move to switch to Vanguard. Should I simply email him asking for a report of his fees, or is there a specific form I should ask for that will have all of the desired information?" Self: "They should be able to account for every single penny of your money.\n\nAsk them to show you total deposits, the returns on your investments, any associated taxes, commissions, and fees.\n\nIf you're still not clear, ask them to explain it again. There should be no mystery about exactly how much they are charging you (both in terms of % and actual $) to manage your money."

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "You're basically renters and she will be your landlord.\n\nYes, this won't help your score at all."

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "I had my ex's grandmother pay cash for a used car, and we then made monthly payments to her. It worked out in the sense that I got a car with 0% interest at 19. It didn't work out in the fact that when it was paid off at 23, I was in the same boat to begin with, needing a new car and no credit."

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "Who will own the house, you or your grandmother? IF you own the house, she should document your obligations with a mortgage\n\nIf you own the house, you wind up with an asset. Otherwise you are renting and you basically have your landlord as a houseguest.\n\n"

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "If you want to do this you need to have the loan documented. Contact an attorney to draw up a loan agreement. "

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "First, the good:\n\n* If you are just repaying her, that's great! No interest on the house loan, what could be better.\n\n* If you guys are in financial trouble, she would most likely be okay if a few months payments are delayed.\n\nThe bad:\n\n* This is your boyfriend's mother. If things were to go south with your boyfriend, you are not going to see any returns or reimbursement on your payments into the house.\n\n* If things between your boyfriend and his mother were to go south, the house is in her name. She can kick you guys out and not reimburse you for the payments made to her.\n\n* Once the house is "paid off" by paying the full amount back to your boyfriend's mother, what's stopping her from keeping the house in her name and not transferring the deed to yours and your boyfriend's name? You should definitely get an attorney involved and get an agreement written if you are going to go through with this."

User (minecraftbronco): "My boyfriend's mother is selling her house. She has offered to buy us a house using the money from the sale and we can make payments to her instead of a bank. With the caveat that she has a room stay in when she is in town. As she will be traveling around the world visiting family.\n\nMy question is, is there a downside to this? Outside of this never helping either of our credit histories.\n\nEdit- The deed will stay in her name until we have paid her in full. Then she will transfer the deed into out names." Self: "I would look into leasing to own contracts. Even though it's family, too many time money comes between members. If she is a reasonable person she will understand that the verbal agreement will be the room to stay, not the loan on the house. \n\nUnfortunately this will not help your credit, but there are many other ways of doing that and with the money saved on mortgage interest, you could get other loans to boost credit. "

User (Throwawaypayroll123): "Hey Guys,\n\nThrowaway account..... as background I work in sales. Performance bonuses are paid quarterly and we receive 45 days after quarter ends typically. I received my last quarterly bonus tied back to my sales on November 15th for $48,868.54 filed in ADP under "performance bonus". I have had no sales since then.\n\nI was shocked when I logged into my bank today and saw that I received another large bonus in the same fashion as my quarterly bonus seemingly out of thin air. I was paid $45,869.00 on the 30th of November also for "performance bonus" but I have no sales revenue to tie it back to. I was not expecting it and I am not sure where it came from. \n\nPlease help with your thoughts on what my best plan of action is here.... I am not sure exactly how to proceed. " Self: "I'm in sales management. This stuff happens very rarely but does happen. I would immediately contact your manager and tell him/her what happened and ask for a payroll contact. Not HR, payroll, as they are entirely separate departments. Ask your manager for their payroll contact and then explain it to them via email with a CC to your manager. That will cover all your bases. "

User (Throwawaypayroll123): "Hey Guys,\n\nThrowaway account..... as background I work in sales. Performance bonuses are paid quarterly and we receive 45 days after quarter ends typically. I received my last quarterly bonus tied back to my sales on November 15th for $48,868.54 filed in ADP under "performance bonus". I have had no sales since then.\n\nI was shocked when I logged into my bank today and saw that I received another large bonus in the same fashion as my quarterly bonus seemingly out of thin air. I was paid $45,869.00 on the 30th of November also for "performance bonus" but I have no sales revenue to tie it back to. I was not expecting it and I am not sure where it came from. \n\nPlease help with your thoughts on what my best plan of action is here.... I am not sure exactly how to proceed. " Self: "Do nothing.\n\nWhen ADP realizes their mistake, the deposit will be reversed.\n\nIf you don't have the money in the account because you spent some of it, you'll need to bring your account out of the red or the bank will charge you fees." saivode (saivode): "> Do nothing.\n\nYou should really actively make whoever is in charge of payroll aware of the issue.\n\nThough I agree that you shouldn't do anything with the money." emt139 (emt139): "Yeah, you need to let your manager and HR/payroll know ASAP. \n\nThey're taking the money away eventually if it was deposited in error. Better do it before the end of the year so your taxes are squared up. "

User (Throwawaypayroll123): "Hey Guys,\n\nThrowaway account..... as background I work in sales. Performance bonuses are paid quarterly and we receive 45 days after quarter ends typically. I received my last quarterly bonus tied back to my sales on November 15th for $48,868.54 filed in ADP under "performance bonus". I have had no sales since then.\n\nI was shocked when I logged into my bank today and saw that I received another large bonus in the same fashion as my quarterly bonus seemingly out of thin air. I was paid $45,869.00 on the 30th of November also for "performance bonus" but I have no sales revenue to tie it back to. I was not expecting it and I am not sure where it came from. \n\nPlease help with your thoughts on what my best plan of action is here.... I am not sure exactly how to proceed. " Self: "If its the same amount someone who approves ADP probably didn't clear the notation from previous payroll that paid you that bonus.\nI would bring it up if you want to keep your job.\nOr cash it out and run if you don't." noreasonatall11111 (noreasonatall11111): "As far as I know in most states they can (and for that amount probably would) sue to recoup it." Self: "Oh, I knew I was giving bad advise...but only after offering what he should do."

User (cgibsong002): "New to using these more advanced means of budgeting. I signed up for mint. I have my own finances/credit cards, and then 2 cc's that are split 50/50 with my girlfriend. \n\nAt first I had everything in my mint account. She paid me for half the shared bills, then I pay them in full. What I've been doing is splitting her payment to me into individual transactions in the proper categories.. so that in effect my budgeting was accurately showing MY personal finances and budgeting. \n\nHowever, a few months in, and it's REALLY tedious. Not only that, but there are many places that my numbers are out of whack (double) due to the fact mint has no way of properly doing split finances. \n\nSo I was thinking.. maybe I should just hide those shared accounts, and set up another account to be used for the shared bills. I'd have my personal finances, and my shared finances. \n\nStill it's only a half measure, as now I need to go back and forth to view a true picture of my finances. I think it will be easier than what I was doing before... But before I go ahead, is there maybe a better site to use? Does anywhere properly handle shared expenses?" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- /r/mintuit: a subreddit all about Mint\n- [Budgeting wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/budgeting)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (cgibsong002): "New to using these more advanced means of budgeting. I signed up for mint. I have my own finances/credit cards, and then 2 cc's that are split 50/50 with my girlfriend. \n\nAt first I had everything in my mint account. She paid me for half the shared bills, then I pay them in full. What I've been doing is splitting her payment to me into individual transactions in the proper categories.. so that in effect my budgeting was accurately showing MY personal finances and budgeting. \n\nHowever, a few months in, and it's REALLY tedious. Not only that, but there are many places that my numbers are out of whack (double) due to the fact mint has no way of properly doing split finances. \n\nSo I was thinking.. maybe I should just hide those shared accounts, and set up another account to be used for the shared bills. I'd have my personal finances, and my shared finances. \n\nStill it's only a half measure, as now I need to go back and forth to view a true picture of my finances. I think it will be easier than what I was doing before... But before I go ahead, is there maybe a better site to use? Does anywhere properly handle shared expenses?" Self: "Once you get beyond a certain point of complexity, budgeting software is either limited or expensive.\n\nTheres a few ways I would think about.\n\n1 - Continue using mint. Add a new income category for GF payments and treat your budget as a higher income, higher expense thing. So if you want to split a $200 food bill...just budget for $200 and add $100 as income. Don't worry too much about getting that $100 into the food bucket. Keep it in mind so you see the big picture.\n\n2 - Continue using mint, but remove the shared accounts. Just track your payments to those accounts (and budget for the total shared amount). You lose a lot of the fine-grained detail on what you spent on fast food vs entertainment...but it makes the splitting easier.\n\n3 - Use a spreadsheet (possibly in addition to mint) to track the split stuff. Since you're making it - you can customize it much better than mint...but it will still be somewhat tedious.\n\n"

User (seignix115): "I'll be graduating in May and starting my freshmen year in the fall of 2017. My parents are very supportive so all my work money I have been saving is pretty much going into my account. It's not a lot under $5000 about. I've chosen a pretty nice college and when my four years are done I'll owe about $60,000. It's about I've signed up for Financial aid and I'm just starting to fill out scholarships. If you have any advice that would be great. I have a pretty good idea about student loans but if anyone could explain it again that would be awesome. My brother-in law has been helping me with a lot of college stuff and he explained it before so I know a little. I'm majoring in computer science and hopefully will end up with a software design job. It's a very good field and money involved. My parents told me straight up I'm paying for college so I'm kind of on my own for that part. Any advice is appreciated! " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Student Loans wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/studentloans)\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (seignix115): "I'll be graduating in May and starting my freshmen year in the fall of 2017. My parents are very supportive so all my work money I have been saving is pretty much going into my account. It's not a lot under $5000 about. I've chosen a pretty nice college and when my four years are done I'll owe about $60,000. It's about I've signed up for Financial aid and I'm just starting to fill out scholarships. If you have any advice that would be great. I have a pretty good idea about student loans but if anyone could explain it again that would be awesome. My brother-in law has been helping me with a lot of college stuff and he explained it before so I know a little. I'm majoring in computer science and hopefully will end up with a software design job. It's a very good field and money involved. My parents told me straight up I'm paying for college so I'm kind of on my own for that part. Any advice is appreciated! " Self: "Lots of demos here. You're going to have to take entrance counselling to receive any federal loans anyways.\n\nhttps://studentloans.gov/myDirectLoan/index.action\n\nalso this:\n\nhttps://studentaid.ed.gov/sa/sites/default/files/your-federal-student-loans.pdf\n\nin addition, $60,000 may exceed what you are able to get in loans and scholarships. Keep that in mind--the amount of federal aid you can obtain is finite.\n\nhttp://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/20/your-money/understanding-the-terms-of-your-student-loans.html"

User (skyleraustin): "Hello. I recently sold my home and ended up netting an amount of cash that I would like to place in a medium-risk investment until I am ready to reinvest in another home (1-2 years from now, or longer). I already max out my 401k, all of that. I just want to place this money in a safe place while potentially growing it. I had been doing research for a couple weeks and was ready make my first purchase in a Vanguard index fund portfolio (about 70 stock /30 bonds). However, the domestic stock market is obviously in an upturn right now. VTSMX / VTSAX is seeing its highest price in 10 years. Vanguards portfolio recommendation tool recommends that 40+% of my money end up in this fund. Doesn't this violate the obvious "buy high" rule, especially when planning on withdrawing in less than 2 years? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n- [Investing wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/investing)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (skyleraustin): "Hello. I recently sold my home and ended up netting an amount of cash that I would like to place in a medium-risk investment until I am ready to reinvest in another home (1-2 years from now, or longer). I already max out my 401k, all of that. I just want to place this money in a safe place while potentially growing it. I had been doing research for a couple weeks and was ready make my first purchase in a Vanguard index fund portfolio (about 70 stock /30 bonds). However, the domestic stock market is obviously in an upturn right now. VTSMX / VTSAX is seeing its highest price in 10 years. Vanguards portfolio recommendation tool recommends that 40+% of my money end up in this fund. Doesn't this violate the obvious "buy high" rule, especially when planning on withdrawing in less than 2 years? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!" Self: "For what it's worth, I use a target date fund outside of my 401K for that purpose. For example, I have a potential need to 2020 and make regular purchase of T Rowe Price 2020 for that purpose. It gives my the diversification I need and rebalances between various stock/bond funds as you get closer. Note also I am comfortable taking the risk of a market dip.\n\nIf you are planning on withdrawing in 2 years, you need to look at your risk tolerance. What if the market tanks in 23 months? If you need a precise sum, you cut risk by sticking with bank deposits or short term securities funds. Trying to time the market is tricky.\n\nA fund with 70% equity seems risky for an investment horizon of two years, if you plan to sell in two years. " User (skyleraustin): ">A fund with 70% equity seems risky for an investment horizon of two years, if you plan to sell in two years.\n\nI am starting to agree with you. I may have gotten a little "best case scenario" trigger happy. Thanks for the info on the target date fund, I will consider that."

User (skyleraustin): "Hello. I recently sold my home and ended up netting an amount of cash that I would like to place in a medium-risk investment until I am ready to reinvest in another home (1-2 years from now, or longer). I already max out my 401k, all of that. I just want to place this money in a safe place while potentially growing it. I had been doing research for a couple weeks and was ready make my first purchase in a Vanguard index fund portfolio (about 70 stock /30 bonds). However, the domestic stock market is obviously in an upturn right now. VTSMX / VTSAX is seeing its highest price in 10 years. Vanguards portfolio recommendation tool recommends that 40+% of my money end up in this fund. Doesn't this violate the obvious "buy high" rule, especially when planning on withdrawing in less than 2 years? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!" Self: "Most conventional wisdom I read suggests that money you are going to want to spend in the next 5 years shouldn't be in the stock market. I certainly agree with that. The risk of losing money is substantial in the short term.\n\nTrying to know whether the market is at a top or a bottom is a practice called 'market timing'. There may be a few people in the world who are able to do market timing consistently, but I am quite certain none of them would be asking advice from reddit. For the rest of us it is a waste of time to try to think about whether the market is at a short term top or bottom, and I think that if you're having to think about that when considering an investment that investment is probably not a good investment for your circumstances."

User (troutburger30): "Hello All,\n\nFirst off, you guys are amazing and so helpful. My question is I have a Chase Freedom Unlimited card with a balance of $2,500. I am making payments and actually plan to pay the whole thing off with my tax return. I really want to get the Chase Amazon card, mainly for the signup bonus and also for the cash back on Amazon purchases. Would this be a stupid thing to do? Thank you! \n\nEdit: The current card has 0 APR until August 2017. " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Cards](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/creditcards) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (troutburger30): "Hello All,\n\nFirst off, you guys are amazing and so helpful. My question is I have a Chase Freedom Unlimited card with a balance of $2,500. I am making payments and actually plan to pay the whole thing off with my tax return. I really want to get the Chase Amazon card, mainly for the signup bonus and also for the cash back on Amazon purchases. Would this be a stupid thing to do? Thank you! \n\nEdit: The current card has 0 APR until August 2017. " Self: "Yes, pay off your card first. This is how debt is made. " User (troutburger30): "Short and simple. Thank you!"

User (troutburger30): "Hello All,\n\nFirst off, you guys are amazing and so helpful. My question is I have a Chase Freedom Unlimited card with a balance of $2,500. I am making payments and actually plan to pay the whole thing off with my tax return. I really want to get the Chase Amazon card, mainly for the signup bonus and also for the cash back on Amazon purchases. Would this be a stupid thing to do? Thank you! \n\nEdit: The current card has 0 APR until August 2017. " Self: "Unless the total amount you owe continues to go down, yes, this is a bad move. Credit cards carry the highest interest rates so it is wise to pay them in full every month. Paying the minimum keeps you debt for many, many yuears." User (troutburger30): "I should have clarified that the current card has 0 APR until August. That's why I am making the payments every month rather than doing it all at once. " Self: "Same rule applies. You need to be sure you get that 2500 to zero before the rate changes. Also - how certain of you of that tax refund? What happens if it is delayed? Do you have $ set aside or are you setting some aside to cover it?\n\nIf you get the amazon card, and you fail to pay it in full every month, the interest will overwhelm any rewards\n\nI" User (troutburger30): "At the risk of sounding like a prick, my parents would bail me out before anything ever got to dire. I am trying to handle this by myself though seeing as this is my first credit card. My wife and I got it only for emergencies and she had a string of pregnancy related issues that we had to put on the card hence the debt. \n\nI guess I was mainly asking because I was wondering if having and VERY LIGHTLY using the 2 cards would help build credit (once the current one is paid off). I really appreciate your help and advice also. This is all new to me. " Self: "Yes, having two cards and making the payments on time will help your score. Comments on the interest rate really have more bearing on the cost to you than your score; the bank likes to collect that interest so carrying a balance is only an issue for your score if it is large relative to your credit limit. " User (troutburger30): "Thank you very much for the advice. I really appreciate it!"

User (super_vixen): "Please excuse me if I sound financially naive. I am a long time lurker and I feel like I can turn to you all for real, genuine, honest advice. I have found myself in the position to pay my Amazon credit card balance of $460, which after paying rent, is exactly how much I have left for the next 2 weeks until I get paid again. Usually, I pay a little over the minimum balance and use my checking to pay bills and groceries. I am wondering if it would be a good idea to pay off that $460 and use the money I put on the card to pay those bills and groceries, and then when I get paid again in 2 weeks pay that off and stay in this routine. I find myself living paycheck to paycheck and while I know this isn't good, it is how it is right now. Is this method I described above a good one? I hope I am making sense :) thank you in advanced for all your advice." Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Cards](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/creditcards) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (super_vixen): "Please excuse me if I sound financially naive. I am a long time lurker and I feel like I can turn to you all for real, genuine, honest advice. I have found myself in the position to pay my Amazon credit card balance of $460, which after paying rent, is exactly how much I have left for the next 2 weeks until I get paid again. Usually, I pay a little over the minimum balance and use my checking to pay bills and groceries. I am wondering if it would be a good idea to pay off that $460 and use the money I put on the card to pay those bills and groceries, and then when I get paid again in 2 weeks pay that off and stay in this routine. I find myself living paycheck to paycheck and while I know this isn't good, it is how it is right now. Is this method I described above a good one? I hope I am making sense :) thank you in advanced for all your advice." Self: "If you have cash back or a rewards system I would use the credit card to make payments. "

User (super_vixen): "Please excuse me if I sound financially naive. I am a long time lurker and I feel like I can turn to you all for real, genuine, honest advice. I have found myself in the position to pay my Amazon credit card balance of $460, which after paying rent, is exactly how much I have left for the next 2 weeks until I get paid again. Usually, I pay a little over the minimum balance and use my checking to pay bills and groceries. I am wondering if it would be a good idea to pay off that $460 and use the money I put on the card to pay those bills and groceries, and then when I get paid again in 2 weeks pay that off and stay in this routine. I find myself living paycheck to paycheck and while I know this isn't good, it is how it is right now. Is this method I described above a good one? I hope I am making sense :) thank you in advanced for all your advice." Self: "I would pay off the $460 to avoid further interest payments for any previous transactions. Use the card to pay for the bills/groceries until you get paid again. Use the paycheck to pay off any debt you charged on the card since then.\n\nI think that's what you were planning to do?" User (super_vixen): "Yup this is what I was planning to do. Thank you for the advice! "

User (stringtheory00): "I'm currently sitting on 12k of student loans still in grace. I'm wondering what would be better for my credit score: just wait until grace ends then paying monthly payments or put as much of my disposable income right now to paying them off, possibly completely before monthly payments start. \nIf I'm reading my credit reports correctly, the agencies seem to care more about monthly payments made rather than the amount you have.\n\nBonus: How can I get the most credit score out of my credit card?" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Reports](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_reports) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (stringtheory00): "I'm currently sitting on 12k of student loans still in grace. I'm wondering what would be better for my credit score: just wait until grace ends then paying monthly payments or put as much of my disposable income right now to paying them off, possibly completely before monthly payments start. \nIf I'm reading my credit reports correctly, the agencies seem to care more about monthly payments made rather than the amount you have.\n\nBonus: How can I get the most credit score out of my credit card?" Self: "https://studentloans.gov/myDirectLoan/mobile/repayment/repaymentEstimator.action"

User (stringtheory00): "I'm currently sitting on 12k of student loans still in grace. I'm wondering what would be better for my credit score: just wait until grace ends then paying monthly payments or put as much of my disposable income right now to paying them off, possibly completely before monthly payments start. \nIf I'm reading my credit reports correctly, the agencies seem to care more about monthly payments made rather than the amount you have.\n\nBonus: How can I get the most credit score out of my credit card?" Self: "Correct. Your credit score will benefit by making all payments on time. Your overall financial health will be better off by paying down hire interest rate loans as fast as you can.\n\nUsing your credit card as a "cash substitute" is an excellent way to build credit. Use it for incidental expenses and pay the balance in full every month by the due date. Timely payments show you use credit responsibly; paying in full means you pay no interest. "

User (stringtheory00): "I'm currently sitting on 12k of student loans still in grace. I'm wondering what would be better for my credit score: just wait until grace ends then paying monthly payments or put as much of my disposable income right now to paying them off, possibly completely before monthly payments start. \nIf I'm reading my credit reports correctly, the agencies seem to care more about monthly payments made rather than the amount you have.\n\nBonus: How can I get the most credit score out of my credit card?" Self: "Paying them monthly is better for your score, but you'll pay interest in order to achieve that. It is never worthwhile to pay interest in order to build credit. \n\nInstead, pay off the loans as quickly as you can unless the interest rates are super low (like I have some that are 1.8%). \n\nOpen a credit card. Put on it recurring expenses (like Netflix, Hulu, gym membership, etc.) or things that you would have purchased anyway and have the money for (groceries, gas). Pay it off each month. This will build your credit as quickly as making monthly payments on your student loans but without having to pay any interest." User (stringtheory00): "Okay, thanks. The student loans are un-subsidized loans so they are accumulating interest right now. Interest rates are 4.6% and 4.2% fixed. I haven't found other options that are much lower. How did you get loans that are at 1.8%?" Self: "My loans are older, that's just the rate that was offered at the time. \n\nPay off the 4.6% loan first, then turn around and pay off the 4.2% loan."

User (DuctTape5119): "I have a credit issue that is beyond frustrating at the moment - \n\nOn April 18, 2016 I paid $207 to a collection agency for a debt settlement. I was sure to request a letter in the mail for confirmation of settlement, and confirmed with the rep my address. \n\nA few weeks later, the balance was updated to reflect my "payment" of $207. The account was still listed as "active collections" \n\nAfter 90 days, I still had not received any letter or correspondence through the mail. I opened up a dispute with Experian, and got no-where with it. They could not find a record of my settlement with the company. \n\nAs of now, its been 9 months. Nothing has changed on this, and when I call the company all I get is a either a "menu" that loops through itself or send me to a voicemail box that is either "full" or straight up disconnects the line. \n\nWTF do I do. \n" Self: "Little confused on what you're asking. Are you trying to get the record removed from your report now that it's paid? Or does your credit report say you owe $XXX (minus the $207 payment) but that you still owe $XXX?\n\nCredit agencies aren't going to have records of the settlement. At best, they would just receive an updated balance or a new collections report with the new amount would be provided and the old amount removed.\n\nBy making a payment *before* getting it in writing, you're essentially SOL and still on the hook for any other money you originally owed. Always get the paperwork in hand before paying anything." User (DuctTape5119): "Or does your credit report say you owe $XXX (minus the $207 payment) but that you still owe $XXX? -Correct\nWhile anyone would love to have it off their record, I would just like to know WTF is going on with it.\nDo I have ground to stand on for another dispute? Or am I for sure SOL out of $207 for no reason?\nCan anyone weigh in on what a settled debt looks like on a credit report? I'm not even sure what to look for, just that it hasn't changed." Self: "It should report that it's closed, not "active collections". You need to get back on the phone with someone from the collection agency. If the number you have isn't getting you through to someone, then I would do some searching online for the company name and see if you can find other contact info.\n\nYou can explain that you agreed to a settlement and still haven't received the proof of that in the mail as requested, but I wouldn't necessarily count on them honoring that. Your other option would be to bluff and pretend that you did receive the letter and threaten to take them to court since they have not closed the debt on your credit report."

User (whattodo22300): "Long story short, she's upside down on her car loan and has fallen way behind. I'm trying to help her sell the car and come up with the money to pay off the remaining balance.\n\nTo avoid repossession the bank is saying they will take $1500 to bring the loan up to date (of the $3200 she is behind on payments). \n\nI've read some thing about people making payments to the bank, and then the car getting repossessed anyway. The person on the phone claims they can't do that, but I'm not inclined to take his word for it. \n\nDoes anyone have any experience with this? Is there anything she should get in writing, or what is the best way to go about something like this?\n\nThanks" Self: "If they come to an agreement to bring the loan up to date, get that agreement in writing detailing the amount to pay and that the loan would be brought up to date, and that repossession would not take place. "

User (whattodo22300): "Long story short, she's upside down on her car loan and has fallen way behind. I'm trying to help her sell the car and come up with the money to pay off the remaining balance.\n\nTo avoid repossession the bank is saying they will take $1500 to bring the loan up to date (of the $3200 she is behind on payments). \n\nI've read some thing about people making payments to the bank, and then the car getting repossessed anyway. The person on the phone claims they can't do that, but I'm not inclined to take his word for it. \n\nDoes anyone have any experience with this? Is there anything she should get in writing, or what is the best way to go about something like this?\n\nThanks" Self: "How the hell is she behind $3200 on payments and how the hell has she avoided having it repo'd already? " User (whattodo22300): "Yeah, I know. I won't go into detail but she's made some pretty boneheaded decisions. I'm helping her clean up the mess..." Self: "No, I completely get that. I just can't wrap my head around a lender not repossessing a vehicle that is so far behind on payments. "

User (TwoBonesJones): "I apologize if I'm all over the place with this, but I've just spent far too long on the phone with the healthcare marketplace and I don't know how to approach this. I've finally gotten into a position where I can afford healthcare and my employer has agreed to help me. I was getting ready to submit my healthcare.gov enrollment, when at the last stage it said that in order to receive a premium tax credit, my wife and I must file a joint tax return. \n\nThe problem is, we have no intention of doing that. She was audited by the IRS for 2013 and owes them money she received prior to our marriage. I'm assuming she is going to be penalized on her taxes this year because of that, and she is on board with us filing separately. The house is in my name, I purchased it, and I don't want her previous tax problems affecting that. I have every intention of helping her get out of that debt, but I don't want to end up with a lien or worse on my home. \n\nIs that assumption incorrect? If she is on a payment plan with the IRS and making attempts to repay the owed money, will she still receive a tax return? If we file jointly, even though the house was a purchase I made alone, should I be worried?\n\nWhy can't we file separately and still get a premium tax credit for healthcare? \n\nI feel like I'm being punished. My choices are a) file my taxes alone and go without a premium tax credit, making health insurance unaffordable or b) file taxes jointly and get the health insurance I need with a premium tax credit at the risk of her tax problems becoming a risk to my home ownership. At least that is how I understand it. If someone who understand taxes better than I could help with this some advice or some knowledge I would be extremely grateful. \n\nEdit:\n\nThings I should have included:\n\nThe debt to the IRS is in the range of $8,000\n\nThe healthcare premium tax credit is $160, which is nearly 40% of the premium. \n\nWe aren't looking to move anytime soon. \n\nI have good credit, she has poor credit. Her name isn't on the title of the house, I purchased it. Avoiding a lien would be preferable. " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Tax Software Megathread](http://redd.it/41dew6)\n- [Taxes wiki page](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/taxes)\n- [Understanding tax brackets](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/taxes#wiki_eli5.3A_taxable_income.2C_tax_brackets.2C_marginal_tax_rates)\n- [W-4 IRS Withholding Calculator](http://www.irs.gov/Individuals/IRS-Withholding-Calculator)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (TwoBonesJones): "I apologize if I'm all over the place with this, but I've just spent far too long on the phone with the healthcare marketplace and I don't know how to approach this. I've finally gotten into a position where I can afford healthcare and my employer has agreed to help me. I was getting ready to submit my healthcare.gov enrollment, when at the last stage it said that in order to receive a premium tax credit, my wife and I must file a joint tax return. \n\nThe problem is, we have no intention of doing that. She was audited by the IRS for 2013 and owes them money she received prior to our marriage. I'm assuming she is going to be penalized on her taxes this year because of that, and she is on board with us filing separately. The house is in my name, I purchased it, and I don't want her previous tax problems affecting that. I have every intention of helping her get out of that debt, but I don't want to end up with a lien or worse on my home. \n\nIs that assumption incorrect? If she is on a payment plan with the IRS and making attempts to repay the owed money, will she still receive a tax return? If we file jointly, even though the house was a purchase I made alone, should I be worried?\n\nWhy can't we file separately and still get a premium tax credit for healthcare? \n\nI feel like I'm being punished. My choices are a) file my taxes alone and go without a premium tax credit, making health insurance unaffordable or b) file taxes jointly and get the health insurance I need with a premium tax credit at the risk of her tax problems becoming a risk to my home ownership. At least that is how I understand it. If someone who understand taxes better than I could help with this some advice or some knowledge I would be extremely grateful. \n\nEdit:\n\nThings I should have included:\n\nThe debt to the IRS is in the range of $8,000\n\nThe healthcare premium tax credit is $160, which is nearly 40% of the premium. \n\nWe aren't looking to move anytime soon. \n\nI have good credit, she has poor credit. Her name isn't on the title of the house, I purchased it. Avoiding a lien would be preferable. " Self: "I think this is going to be outside the expertise of most people on this sub. However, a quick search on google [showed me at least one site saying that if the money your spouse owes was from before the marriage they won't put a lien on your house] (http://www.carnahanlaw.com/IRS/nonliable_spouse.html). At least that's what I think it's saying after a quick scan.\n\nThere are a few things you probably should have included in your post.\n\n1. How much is the debt to the IRS?\n\n2. How much is your premium tax credit? Is the lien worth the savings?\n\n3. Are you looking to move soon? (if yes the lien is really bad)\n\n4. Would it be disastrous if your credit score took a hit if the lien was put on your home?\n\nI would really talk to a professional about this because this is a rather unique and tricky situation." User (TwoBonesJones): "thanks for the response, I'll edit the post with these points. \n\n1. The debt is about $8,000\n2. The premium tax credit for healthcare is $160\n3. No, we are not looking to move soon.\n4. It wouldn't be disastrous, but it sure wouldn't be great either. I have good credit but hers is very poor, because she is terrible with money. Since we've been together, things are improving because she let's me help manage her money, but 7-10 years is an awful long time. "

User (TwoBonesJones): "I apologize if I'm all over the place with this, but I've just spent far too long on the phone with the healthcare marketplace and I don't know how to approach this. I've finally gotten into a position where I can afford healthcare and my employer has agreed to help me. I was getting ready to submit my healthcare.gov enrollment, when at the last stage it said that in order to receive a premium tax credit, my wife and I must file a joint tax return. \n\nThe problem is, we have no intention of doing that. She was audited by the IRS for 2013 and owes them money she received prior to our marriage. I'm assuming she is going to be penalized on her taxes this year because of that, and she is on board with us filing separately. The house is in my name, I purchased it, and I don't want her previous tax problems affecting that. I have every intention of helping her get out of that debt, but I don't want to end up with a lien or worse on my home. \n\nIs that assumption incorrect? If she is on a payment plan with the IRS and making attempts to repay the owed money, will she still receive a tax return? If we file jointly, even though the house was a purchase I made alone, should I be worried?\n\nWhy can't we file separately and still get a premium tax credit for healthcare? \n\nI feel like I'm being punished. My choices are a) file my taxes alone and go without a premium tax credit, making health insurance unaffordable or b) file taxes jointly and get the health insurance I need with a premium tax credit at the risk of her tax problems becoming a risk to my home ownership. At least that is how I understand it. If someone who understand taxes better than I could help with this some advice or some knowledge I would be extremely grateful. \n\nEdit:\n\nThings I should have included:\n\nThe debt to the IRS is in the range of $8,000\n\nThe healthcare premium tax credit is $160, which is nearly 40% of the premium. \n\nWe aren't looking to move anytime soon. \n\nI have good credit, she has poor credit. Her name isn't on the title of the house, I purchased it. Avoiding a lien would be preferable. " Self: "File jointly and, if you are claiming a refund, include an [Injured Spouse Allocation on Form 8379](https://www.irs.gov/uac/form-8379-injured-spouse-allocation?_ga=1.260440143.314448427.1443308717). Based on the amount you described, you should not be subject to a Notice of Federal Tax Lien if your spouse has a valid Installment Agreement. " User (TwoBonesJones): "This is perfect, thank you so much. "

User (TwoBonesJones): "I apologize if I'm all over the place with this, but I've just spent far too long on the phone with the healthcare marketplace and I don't know how to approach this. I've finally gotten into a position where I can afford healthcare and my employer has agreed to help me. I was getting ready to submit my healthcare.gov enrollment, when at the last stage it said that in order to receive a premium tax credit, my wife and I must file a joint tax return. \n\nThe problem is, we have no intention of doing that. She was audited by the IRS for 2013 and owes them money she received prior to our marriage. I'm assuming she is going to be penalized on her taxes this year because of that, and she is on board with us filing separately. The house is in my name, I purchased it, and I don't want her previous tax problems affecting that. I have every intention of helping her get out of that debt, but I don't want to end up with a lien or worse on my home. \n\nIs that assumption incorrect? If she is on a payment plan with the IRS and making attempts to repay the owed money, will she still receive a tax return? If we file jointly, even though the house was a purchase I made alone, should I be worried?\n\nWhy can't we file separately and still get a premium tax credit for healthcare? \n\nI feel like I'm being punished. My choices are a) file my taxes alone and go without a premium tax credit, making health insurance unaffordable or b) file taxes jointly and get the health insurance I need with a premium tax credit at the risk of her tax problems becoming a risk to my home ownership. At least that is how I understand it. If someone who understand taxes better than I could help with this some advice or some knowledge I would be extremely grateful. \n\nEdit:\n\nThings I should have included:\n\nThe debt to the IRS is in the range of $8,000\n\nThe healthcare premium tax credit is $160, which is nearly 40% of the premium. \n\nWe aren't looking to move anytime soon. \n\nI have good credit, she has poor credit. Her name isn't on the title of the house, I purchased it. Avoiding a lien would be preferable. " Self: "I think this is going to be outside the expertise of most people on this sub. However, a quick search on google [showed me at least one site saying that if the money your spouse owes was from before the marriage they won't put a lien on your house] (http://www.carnahanlaw.com/IRS/nonliable_spouse.html). At least that's what I think it's saying after a quick scan.\n\nThere are a few things you probably should have included in your post.\n\n1. How much is the debt to the IRS?\n\n2. How much is your premium tax credit? Is the lien worth the savings?\n\n3. Are you looking to move soon? (if yes the lien is really bad)\n\n4. Would it be disastrous if your credit score took a hit if the lien was put on your home?\n\nI would really talk to a professional about this because this is a rather unique and tricky situation." gooberfaced (gooberfaced): "> I think this is going to be outside the expertise of most people on this sub. However, a quick search on google showed me at least one site saying that if the money your spouse owes was from before the marriage they won't put a lien on your house. At least that's what I think it's saying after a quick scan.\n\nI was in this exact same situation and they *did* put liens on my husband's home even though we were not married in the years for which I owed. They told us marriage equaled shared responsibility even though the debt was mine and the house in his name alone. \n\nAt any rate we paid a very low monthly payment on an installment plan for ten years then the remainder was forgiven and the liens removed. We filed jointly all along."

User (TwoBonesJones): "I apologize if I'm all over the place with this, but I've just spent far too long on the phone with the healthcare marketplace and I don't know how to approach this. I've finally gotten into a position where I can afford healthcare and my employer has agreed to help me. I was getting ready to submit my healthcare.gov enrollment, when at the last stage it said that in order to receive a premium tax credit, my wife and I must file a joint tax return. \n\nThe problem is, we have no intention of doing that. She was audited by the IRS for 2013 and owes them money she received prior to our marriage. I'm assuming she is going to be penalized on her taxes this year because of that, and she is on board with us filing separately. The house is in my name, I purchased it, and I don't want her previous tax problems affecting that. I have every intention of helping her get out of that debt, but I don't want to end up with a lien or worse on my home. \n\nIs that assumption incorrect? If she is on a payment plan with the IRS and making attempts to repay the owed money, will she still receive a tax return? If we file jointly, even though the house was a purchase I made alone, should I be worried?\n\nWhy can't we file separately and still get a premium tax credit for healthcare? \n\nI feel like I'm being punished. My choices are a) file my taxes alone and go without a premium tax credit, making health insurance unaffordable or b) file taxes jointly and get the health insurance I need with a premium tax credit at the risk of her tax problems becoming a risk to my home ownership. At least that is how I understand it. If someone who understand taxes better than I could help with this some advice or some knowledge I would be extremely grateful. \n\nEdit:\n\nThings I should have included:\n\nThe debt to the IRS is in the range of $8,000\n\nThe healthcare premium tax credit is $160, which is nearly 40% of the premium. \n\nWe aren't looking to move anytime soon. \n\nI have good credit, she has poor credit. Her name isn't on the title of the house, I purchased it. Avoiding a lien would be preferable. " Self: "Filing separately is for people trying to cheat on taxes. It's strongly penalized compared to filing jointly which people should be doing.\n\nFile jointly. The IRS probably won't put a lien on your house anyway and even if they do it's not a big deal. As long as you are on a payment plan with them they aren't going to throw you out and auction off your house." gooberfaced (gooberfaced): "> **Filing jointly** is for people trying to cheat on taxes. It's strongly penalized compared to **filing jointly** which people should be doing.\n\nPlease consider proofreading your posts. \nThis is such a stupid error." Self: "I normally do, but I was in a hurry this time."

User (engineeringlife_): "I'm posting here because I have nowhere else to really go. This Wednesday day I got into a car accident. And after hearing back the cost of repairs and insurance not covering the repair. I'm sorta in denial and not sure what I should be doing. Please someone help.\n\nBackstory:\nI was driving home from a friends place, it was raining pretty badly and I need to make a left across a 2 lane road. As I went to make the left I got hit by the oncoming car. \n\nInsurance:\nIt turns out that since I didn't get the photo inspection done my insurance only cover property damage and damage to the other vehicle. \n\nAt Fault:\nThe insurance company has decided that since the other person was going straight and I was making a turn. He had right of way so I am at fault. So they will cover the cost to replace his car but not mine.\n\nCar Repair:\nI just got the first estimate back from an auto body shop and they are looking at around $10k at least if not completely unrepairable. The KBB value of the car is also only 12-13k.\n\nEDIT: I'm in NY and have Geico\n\n\nEDIT2(4pm EST): The car was financed 12 months ago, I still have to pay 15k on it.\n\n\nEDIT3(4pm EST): Someone has mentioned that I might be able to get them to pay for at least partial damages by arguing the decision of who is at fault. Possibly at small claims court, is this a worthwhile step to take?\n" Self: "Without coverage here you are going to have to eat the loss. With that much damage repairing it is probably not a great idea. Contact some junkyards and try to sell as many parts as you can. "

User (engineeringlife_): "I'm posting here because I have nowhere else to really go. This Wednesday day I got into a car accident. And after hearing back the cost of repairs and insurance not covering the repair. I'm sorta in denial and not sure what I should be doing. Please someone help.\n\nBackstory:\nI was driving home from a friends place, it was raining pretty badly and I need to make a left across a 2 lane road. As I went to make the left I got hit by the oncoming car. \n\nInsurance:\nIt turns out that since I didn't get the photo inspection done my insurance only cover property damage and damage to the other vehicle. \n\nAt Fault:\nThe insurance company has decided that since the other person was going straight and I was making a turn. He had right of way so I am at fault. So they will cover the cost to replace his car but not mine.\n\nCar Repair:\nI just got the first estimate back from an auto body shop and they are looking at around $10k at least if not completely unrepairable. The KBB value of the car is also only 12-13k.\n\nEDIT: I'm in NY and have Geico\n\n\nEDIT2(4pm EST): The car was financed 12 months ago, I still have to pay 15k on it.\n\n\nEDIT3(4pm EST): Someone has mentioned that I might be able to get them to pay for at least partial damages by arguing the decision of who is at fault. Possibly at small claims court, is this a worthwhile step to take?\n" Self: "Why can't you go back and get the photo inspection done? \n\nYour vehicle is totaled. There's little around that. Speak to your insurance about it, but if they won't cover the damage, they'll likely release the vehicle to you, and you can salvage auction it off on your own. " np20412 (np20412): "In ny there is a requirement upon purchasing coverage to have a photo inspection done within like two weeks of the coverage start date. If you don't have it done, then insurance can deny your claim. You can't go back and retroactively do it. " Self: "I commented before the edit. I'm originally from NY with Geico, but when I got MD coverage I didn't have to do it. \n\nThen OP is SOL. "

User (engineeringlife_): "I'm posting here because I have nowhere else to really go. This Wednesday day I got into a car accident. And after hearing back the cost of repairs and insurance not covering the repair. I'm sorta in denial and not sure what I should be doing. Please someone help.\n\nBackstory:\nI was driving home from a friends place, it was raining pretty badly and I need to make a left across a 2 lane road. As I went to make the left I got hit by the oncoming car. \n\nInsurance:\nIt turns out that since I didn't get the photo inspection done my insurance only cover property damage and damage to the other vehicle. \n\nAt Fault:\nThe insurance company has decided that since the other person was going straight and I was making a turn. He had right of way so I am at fault. So they will cover the cost to replace his car but not mine.\n\nCar Repair:\nI just got the first estimate back from an auto body shop and they are looking at around $10k at least if not completely unrepairable. The KBB value of the car is also only 12-13k.\n\nEDIT: I'm in NY and have Geico\n\n\nEDIT2(4pm EST): The car was financed 12 months ago, I still have to pay 15k on it.\n\n\nEDIT3(4pm EST): Someone has mentioned that I might be able to get them to pay for at least partial damages by arguing the decision of who is at fault. Possibly at small claims court, is this a worthwhile step to take?\n" User (engineeringlife_): "Thanks guys. I know I'm screwed and it was my own fault for letting the insurance coverage fall. But is there ANYTHING that can be done either with the insurance company or the car loan company?" JCDexter (JCDexter): "Were you actually paying for the collision coverage that they now say you aren't eligible for? Or were you only paying for liability? If you were paying for collision, it seems like you had an expectation of coverage." User (engineeringlife_): "I had to go back and check. But I was not being charged for collision for the past few months. I didn't really pay attention since it was auto pay from a credit card. I've tried to speak with Geico already and they are adamant that enough time had passed and I am not covered. \n"

User (chapine): "Hi I am a 19 year-old sophomore undergrad with about $2000 of medical debt. I got sick my freshman year and although insurance paid the bulk of it ($8000), I've been left with the two grand. My parents do not have good credit and are in debt themselves and cannot pay. I have a scholarship for tuition that does not allow me to work. \n\n\nMy dad suggested I take out a loan and just pay it. Like I said, tuition for four years is payed for but I've taken out personal, student loans so I can pay for things like housing and books. My mom has told me to not take calls from the collectors. They've called me from about three or four different numbers and I've blocked all of them.\n\n\n\nAfter reading some personal finance posts, I realize that this is not right. But I'm not sure what to say to the debt collectors. I think the hospital has already sold the debt to another agency and like I said, it's been a lot of different numbers. Do I start with the hospital and then go from there? \n\n\n\nAlso, how do I know if a collection agency is who it says it is? A few weeks ago, a number called regarding my debt and when I said I didn't feel comfortable verifying over the phone, they hung up. I don't remember exactly what they asked for -- maybe my social or birthday or address?? But it scared me.\n\n\n\nI am in school to be a high school teacher if that's relevant..." Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n- [Dealing with collections](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/collections)\n- [Credit Repair](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building#wiki_i_have_bad_credit.2C_and_i_am_looking_to_repair_it.)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (chapine): "Hi I am a 19 year-old sophomore undergrad with about $2000 of medical debt. I got sick my freshman year and although insurance paid the bulk of it ($8000), I've been left with the two grand. My parents do not have good credit and are in debt themselves and cannot pay. I have a scholarship for tuition that does not allow me to work. \n\n\nMy dad suggested I take out a loan and just pay it. Like I said, tuition for four years is payed for but I've taken out personal, student loans so I can pay for things like housing and books. My mom has told me to not take calls from the collectors. They've called me from about three or four different numbers and I've blocked all of them.\n\n\n\nAfter reading some personal finance posts, I realize that this is not right. But I'm not sure what to say to the debt collectors. I think the hospital has already sold the debt to another agency and like I said, it's been a lot of different numbers. Do I start with the hospital and then go from there? \n\n\n\nAlso, how do I know if a collection agency is who it says it is? A few weeks ago, a number called regarding my debt and when I said I didn't feel comfortable verifying over the phone, they hung up. I don't remember exactly what they asked for -- maybe my social or birthday or address?? But it scared me.\n\n\n\nI am in school to be a high school teacher if that's relevant..." Self: "Medical bills don't count against credit score. Even if it is on your credit. That's what I was told. It disappears after 7 years. I had to go to the ER once and was never able to pay it. Figured I'd pay it after college. It's not on my credit report anymore." User (chapine): "Thank you!"

User (DepressedFatCat): "I recently made probably biggest decision in my life which is switching my career. I'm going back to school. \n\nI currently have a car that I still owe about $13,000. My parents are willing to pay the payments for me but I really don't feel comfortable as they will provide money for housing at the university. \n\nMy car has been very reliable and its value for selling to private party is about ~$15,000. \n\nShould I keep the car? \n(2011 Infiniti G37 with warranty til 120k miles. Currently have 75k miles)\n\nOr sell it / get a cheaper car?\n\nWhat would be a good decision in long term?\n\nThanks in advance." Self: "Do you need a car?\n\nIf yes, if it is reliable it seems like keeping it is the prudent thing to do. \n\nYou can always repay your parents later."

User (DepressedFatCat): "I recently made probably biggest decision in my life which is switching my career. I'm going back to school. \n\nI currently have a car that I still owe about $13,000. My parents are willing to pay the payments for me but I really don't feel comfortable as they will provide money for housing at the university. \n\nMy car has been very reliable and its value for selling to private party is about ~$15,000. \n\nShould I keep the car? \n(2011 Infiniti G37 with warranty til 120k miles. Currently have 75k miles)\n\nOr sell it / get a cheaper car?\n\nWhat would be a good decision in long term?\n\nThanks in advance." Self: "I would sell it for 15, return 11 and buy a beat up car for 2k if you really need it. \nIf you don't need it then keep those 2k in saving account. "

User (DepressedFatCat): "I recently made probably biggest decision in my life which is switching my career. I'm going back to school. \n\nI currently have a car that I still owe about $13,000. My parents are willing to pay the payments for me but I really don't feel comfortable as they will provide money for housing at the university. \n\nMy car has been very reliable and its value for selling to private party is about ~$15,000. \n\nShould I keep the car? \n(2011 Infiniti G37 with warranty til 120k miles. Currently have 75k miles)\n\nOr sell it / get a cheaper car?\n\nWhat would be a good decision in long term?\n\nThanks in advance." Self: "Sell it and then pocket the $2K cash or buy a beater car. Oh, and before you sell it cancel that silly "up to 120K miles" warranty and get the prorated amount back...you'll probably get $1K or so back on that too.\n\nI'm confident that warranty doesn't add any decent value to the sale of your car to a private party."

User (thr0w4w4y_4cc0un7): "My mom is really nice about helping out family members with investments. She paid for undergrad for both her kids, helped my brother with grad school (he's paying her back for half), and now is helping him put together a down payment on a house. For all of these, she has offered to "balance it out" among the two of us.\n\nFor the most recent help, she offered to match the help my brother was given to me. I'm not necessarily planning to stay in my city for a while, so I'm reluctant to buy in an exploding market. Instead, she suggested I take the money and invest. I'd like to have access to this money in the medium-term, so it'll go in a taxable account through Vanguard or Fidelity (yes, I contribute to 457b and pension through employer, and I have enough of an e-fund to last me a couple months).\n\nMy question is, how can I accept that money without running up any gift taxes? Could she put the money in a jointly-owned account, then leave it for me to manage? Would it be better to just get the money spread over a couple years?" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n- [Investing wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/investing)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (thr0w4w4y_4cc0un7): "My mom is really nice about helping out family members with investments. She paid for undergrad for both her kids, helped my brother with grad school (he's paying her back for half), and now is helping him put together a down payment on a house. For all of these, she has offered to "balance it out" among the two of us.\n\nFor the most recent help, she offered to match the help my brother was given to me. I'm not necessarily planning to stay in my city for a while, so I'm reluctant to buy in an exploding market. Instead, she suggested I take the money and invest. I'd like to have access to this money in the medium-term, so it'll go in a taxable account through Vanguard or Fidelity (yes, I contribute to 457b and pension through employer, and I have enough of an e-fund to last me a couple months).\n\nMy question is, how can I accept that money without running up any gift taxes? Could she put the money in a jointly-owned account, then leave it for me to manage? Would it be better to just get the money spread over a couple years?" Self: "Gift taxes don't apply to you, and they only apply to the parent when the total amount of gifts surpasses over $5mm.\n\nIf someone gives you more than $14k in a year they simply need to declare that they did it when they file taxes. Amounts over $14k are the only things that count against the lifetime exemption of $5mm+ as well."

User (thr0w4w4y_4cc0un7): "My mom is really nice about helping out family members with investments. She paid for undergrad for both her kids, helped my brother with grad school (he's paying her back for half), and now is helping him put together a down payment on a house. For all of these, she has offered to "balance it out" among the two of us.\n\nFor the most recent help, she offered to match the help my brother was given to me. I'm not necessarily planning to stay in my city for a while, so I'm reluctant to buy in an exploding market. Instead, she suggested I take the money and invest. I'd like to have access to this money in the medium-term, so it'll go in a taxable account through Vanguard or Fidelity (yes, I contribute to 457b and pension through employer, and I have enough of an e-fund to last me a couple months).\n\nMy question is, how can I accept that money without running up any gift taxes? Could she put the money in a jointly-owned account, then leave it for me to manage? Would it be better to just get the money spread over a couple years?" Self: "Go to Fidelity:) Taxes will get you now or later down the road!"

User (kidbr9): "Hey PF,\n\nMy work offers a 3% match on retirement contributions. However, we have to go through Fidelity and it's all self-managed. The self-managed part is key.\n\nAs I know very little about investing, all funds are going straight to SPAXX (the Fidelity Government Money Market portfolio/fund) and getting a **very** minimal return.\n\nAt this point, it's essentially just a savings account. Only, I can't even withdraw anything from it without penalties, hahaha.\n\nI *do* have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nSo, what does PF recommend? I want these funds to, you know, gain returns instead of just sitting there. Should I have EJ make withdrawals from my Fidelity Simple IRA account and put them in my portfolio with them?\n\nTL;DR: work matches 3%. Funds in self-managed Fidelity account gaining no interest (because I have zero idea how to invest). Already have Roth set-up with Edward Jones. Want to maximize performance work match funds.\n\nThanks so much!" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Retirement Accounts](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_retirement_accounts) (articles on 401(k) plans, IRAs, and more)\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (kidbr9): "Hey PF,\n\nMy work offers a 3% match on retirement contributions. However, we have to go through Fidelity and it's all self-managed. The self-managed part is key.\n\nAs I know very little about investing, all funds are going straight to SPAXX (the Fidelity Government Money Market portfolio/fund) and getting a **very** minimal return.\n\nAt this point, it's essentially just a savings account. Only, I can't even withdraw anything from it without penalties, hahaha.\n\nI *do* have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nSo, what does PF recommend? I want these funds to, you know, gain returns instead of just sitting there. Should I have EJ make withdrawals from my Fidelity Simple IRA account and put them in my portfolio with them?\n\nTL;DR: work matches 3%. Funds in self-managed Fidelity account gaining no interest (because I have zero idea how to invest). Already have Roth set-up with Edward Jones. Want to maximize performance work match funds.\n\nThanks so much!" Self: "> I do have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nYou should ditch Edward Jones. You're no doubt paying a hefty premium for this "financial advisor".\n\nRead the investing and retirement links in wiki linked to in the sidebar for advice."

User (kidbr9): "Hey PF,\n\nMy work offers a 3% match on retirement contributions. However, we have to go through Fidelity and it's all self-managed. The self-managed part is key.\n\nAs I know very little about investing, all funds are going straight to SPAXX (the Fidelity Government Money Market portfolio/fund) and getting a **very** minimal return.\n\nAt this point, it's essentially just a savings account. Only, I can't even withdraw anything from it without penalties, hahaha.\n\nI *do* have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nSo, what does PF recommend? I want these funds to, you know, gain returns instead of just sitting there. Should I have EJ make withdrawals from my Fidelity Simple IRA account and put them in my portfolio with them?\n\nTL;DR: work matches 3%. Funds in self-managed Fidelity account gaining no interest (because I have zero idea how to invest). Already have Roth set-up with Edward Jones. Want to maximize performance work match funds.\n\nThanks so much!" Self: "Well you have it all in a money market fund....that **IS** essentially a savings account.\n\nIf you could provide a list of the available funds you have to choose from then someone might be able to give you somewhere to start." User (kidbr9): "Haha. Yeah. As I said, I'm pretty aloof when it comes to the particulars and terminology here.\n\nI'm filtering a bunch of stuff and going to target some NTF/High Return/High Ratings."

User (kidbr9): "Hey PF,\n\nMy work offers a 3% match on retirement contributions. However, we have to go through Fidelity and it's all self-managed. The self-managed part is key.\n\nAs I know very little about investing, all funds are going straight to SPAXX (the Fidelity Government Money Market portfolio/fund) and getting a **very** minimal return.\n\nAt this point, it's essentially just a savings account. Only, I can't even withdraw anything from it without penalties, hahaha.\n\nI *do* have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nSo, what does PF recommend? I want these funds to, you know, gain returns instead of just sitting there. Should I have EJ make withdrawals from my Fidelity Simple IRA account and put them in my portfolio with them?\n\nTL;DR: work matches 3%. Funds in self-managed Fidelity account gaining no interest (because I have zero idea how to invest). Already have Roth set-up with Edward Jones. Want to maximize performance work match funds.\n\nThanks so much!" Self: "Search fidelity to see what funds are open to you. Depending on your age (more stocks if you're younger) and how much work you want to do, I'd either recommend stock index funds (lowest fees, you have to switch to bonds over time as you age) or a target date fund with the year closest to your planned retirement date (not as low fees, it auto switches to bonds as you age).\n\n\nSwitch all your fidelity funds into whatever you choose and set the new funds to automatically invest into those accounts.\n\nCheck what funds your EJ account are in. Same suggestions apply.\n\nYou say your work is an IRA? If so, be careful about the annual limit since you are doing another IRA outside of it. If your work is a 401k, then you should be fine." User (kidbr9): "Thanks so much. I really appreciate it!\n\nI just checked with HR and it is a Simple IRA. I'm only contributing $60 a month to Edward Jones, but plan on increasing that a little shortly (but not over the annual contribution limit)." Self: "~~The simple IRA will be part of your $5500 annual limit.~~ Matching is free money, so I'd put in exactly the amount needed to get their matching.\n\nThen I'd shop around. Compare your work fidelity options (especially the stock index funds and target date funds) with Edward Jones. Probably check out vanguard and a personal fidelity investment account (those are probably better than EJ). Look specifically at the fee percentages.\n\nYou basically have 3 decisions to make. With the extra money beyond the minimum matching, do you want a Traditional or Roth IRA? It may be easier to\n\nYour second choice is investment funds. Figure out whether you want index or target date.\n\nYour third choice is which company to go with. Once you know the type of funds you want, compare fees.\n\n\nSo change your simple IRA to a better fund. Pick a new place/fund(s) and start contributing there. If it isn't Edward Jones, look into transferring it into your new fund." User (kidbr9): "Thorough insight. Truly appreciated!"

User (kidbr9): "Hey PF,\n\nMy work offers a 3% match on retirement contributions. However, we have to go through Fidelity and it's all self-managed. The self-managed part is key.\n\nAs I know very little about investing, all funds are going straight to SPAXX (the Fidelity Government Money Market portfolio/fund) and getting a **very** minimal return.\n\nAt this point, it's essentially just a savings account. Only, I can't even withdraw anything from it without penalties, hahaha.\n\nI *do* have a ROTH IRA with Edward Jones that I contribute a little extra to every month outside of work. This account has a "financial advisor" assigned to it.\n\nSo, what does PF recommend? I want these funds to, you know, gain returns instead of just sitting there. Should I have EJ make withdrawals from my Fidelity Simple IRA account and put them in my portfolio with them?\n\nTL;DR: work matches 3%. Funds in self-managed Fidelity account gaining no interest (because I have zero idea how to invest). Already have Roth set-up with Edward Jones. Want to maximize performance work match funds.\n\nThanks so much!" Self: "You are getting deposits in cash. It looks like your employer is allowing you to make your own investment choices. This is how your money market works:\nhttps://www.fidelity.com/trading/faqs-about-account#faq_about1\n\nYou can use the research tab to filter for funds you like based on certain criteria. You can use the ETF screener tool if you don't quite meet their minimums. You can also use their Learning Center link off research to learn more about investing/how their site works. As a last resort you can always just call in and ask them questions.\n\n" User (kidbr9): "Yeah, what you described is exactly the situation. Thanks!\n\nI made some purchases in a mutual fund and a chemical stock. Part of me wishes I hadn't. I have a **very** compulsive personality and like to gamble from time to time. I've already checked out /r/pennystocks. Going to be hard for me to just set it and forget it, hahaha." Self: "I understand completely. I trade pennystocks as well but not in my main retirement account and not with money I can't afford to lose. I would suggest blocking out the subreddits like pennystocks and wallstreetbets and only read them for humor purposes (they like to play binary events on small cap bios that usually go down in aftermarket hours after terrible news - I assure you that you probably worked too hard for your money to accept that level of risk)."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Cards](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/creditcards) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Mostly reward points on credit cards. Some cards offer a flat 1.5% return on all purchases, some have rotating categories of 2-5% on certain purchase like gas or something. Flight miles.. things like that"

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Debit cards have protections, but you're out the cash while the situation gets sorted out.\n\nIf someone steals your credit card info and charges up a bunch of stuff, your rent checks don't bounce.\n"

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "The people here have done a pretty good job explaining most of it. Don't ignore the identity theft benefits of CCs over DCs.\n\nIn general, every possible thing in a CC is better than that same thing in a DC. \n\nThere is really no reason to do anything else other than somebody has bad impulse control. Even then, that person just needs to learn impulse control."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Lots of good info on the pros of credit cards. I'll just point out the big con:\n\nThey will allow you to spend more money than you have.\n\nIt's essentially taking out an extremely high-interest loan, if you keep a balance.\n\nI have my credit cards tracked, along with everything else, on Mint. So a purchase on a credit card looks exactly the same as a debit card, which helps me stay in the right mindset."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "https://www.nerdwallet.com/blog/credit-cards/credit-cards-make-you-spend-more/\n\nThats why it is better to use CCs."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "In the UK, Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act gives protection on credit card purchases between £100-£30,000."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Credit card fraud prevention is better in the sense that fraudulent purchases aren't immediately deducted from your cash balance.\n\nCredit cards often offer a rewards program gives you a small amount of cash back. Those programs can apply to all your purchases (generally in the 1% - 2% range) or specific categories (3% for restaurants and groceries, 5% for gas, etc.).\n\nUsing a credit card responsibly doesn't cost you anything. If you pay off your statement in full no interest is charged and there are a number of no annual fee cards to choose from.\n\nCredit card use benefits your credit score by giving you a long history of on time payments." emt139 (emt139): "This is a very good summary. I'll just add that some cards offer some extra benefits like doubling the warranties of the products you buy with them, doing price protection by refunding you when whatever you got has it's price lowered, have secondary and sometimes even primary rental car insurance, and finally, they give you some extra days to pay. For example, I got a new card in late October and my due date to pay is December 5th. Has I brought with cash, it would be out of my account now but they're basically giving me a very short interest free period. " User (bka510): "I think AmEx is the one that doubles warranty? I'll look into it!" DaveInPhilly (DaveInPhilly): "I think many do these days. I know my Chase and Citicards do as well. " finite_automata (finite_automata): "It is limited in the claim amount per year though. But still great offer at no cost."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Credit card fraud prevention is better in the sense that fraudulent purchases aren't immediately deducted from your cash balance.\n\nCredit cards often offer a rewards program gives you a small amount of cash back. Those programs can apply to all your purchases (generally in the 1% - 2% range) or specific categories (3% for restaurants and groceries, 5% for gas, etc.).\n\nUsing a credit card responsibly doesn't cost you anything. If you pay off your statement in full no interest is charged and there are a number of no annual fee cards to choose from.\n\nCredit card use benefits your credit score by giving you a long history of on time payments." emt139 (emt139): "This is a very good summary. I'll just add that some cards offer some extra benefits like doubling the warranties of the products you buy with them, doing price protection by refunding you when whatever you got has it's price lowered, have secondary and sometimes even primary rental car insurance, and finally, they give you some extra days to pay. For example, I got a new card in late October and my due date to pay is December 5th. Has I brought with cash, it would be out of my account now but they're basically giving me a very short interest free period. " Chip89 (Chip89): "My debit card does that 2 warranties! "

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Here's for example Chase Reserve Benefits: https://www.chase.com/card-benefits/sapphirereserve/travel\n\nI'm taking my second vacation of the year and don't have to worry about paying for the flight because of the points and $300 travel refund."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Credit card fraud prevention is better in the sense that fraudulent purchases aren't immediately deducted from your cash balance.\n\nCredit cards often offer a rewards program gives you a small amount of cash back. Those programs can apply to all your purchases (generally in the 1% - 2% range) or specific categories (3% for restaurants and groceries, 5% for gas, etc.).\n\nUsing a credit card responsibly doesn't cost you anything. If you pay off your statement in full no interest is charged and there are a number of no annual fee cards to choose from.\n\nCredit card use benefits your credit score by giving you a long history of on time payments." mac2885 (mac2885): "Also, if you genuinely run into a cash crunch (which hopefully never happens) then it also gives you a line of credit you can tap and let roll for a month or 2 as you pay it off, rathern than overdraft your checking."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "I don't think anyone mention this yet, but a credit card is like having an on-demand 30 day interest-free loan. Just remember to not "burrow" more than you can pay back in full in 30 days or whatever the grace period. Your parents are probably the only other people that can beat this deal." User (bka510): "great point!@"

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "Here in Atlanta, we have our local personal finance guru Clark Howard and [here](http://www.clark.com/5-more-places-you-should-never-use-debit-card)'s what he has to say re: debit cards." User (bka510): "awesome thanks!" Self: "That whole site is a treasure trove of personal finance information. The man has already made his millions, now he's on a selfless mission to help everyone else save for theirs."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "As long as you pay them off as soon as you use them (to avoid interest) and get cards with no annual fee, the points programs. Cash back, travel rewards, etc as opposed to getting nothing on your debit card use."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "If your credit card is compromised, somebody has stolen **Visa's** money. They will work very hard to fix the problem to the best of their ability. If your debit card is compromised, somebody has stolen your money, and the Bank will work as slowly as possible to get **your** money back. " godlyhalo (godlyhalo): "I had to file a charge back on my debit card because a hotel I stayed at fraudulently charged my debit card for 3 separate $10 charges one month after I had checked out of the hotel. It took chase literally one business day to get me my money back, and 1 month to get a new debit card. Getting my money back wasn't an issue, getting a new debit card though was just terrible experience." redflcn (redflcn): "What hotel was this?" godlyhalo (godlyhalo): "Staybridge suites, it's an extended stay hotel which I was in for a month while on a business trip. I bet they weren't too happy about a charge back."

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "I have a card that is 2% back on all purchases. I use it like a debit card and have the statements automatically paid in full from my checking each month. Last year it amounted to about $700 for free. Would you turn down a free $700 for not changing your spending habits or doing anything different other than using a different card?"

User (bka510): "If there are any links to explain I would appreciate that as well. \n\nedit: Thank you all for your responses today" Self: "I have a card that is 2% back on all purchases. I use it like a debit card and have the statements automatically paid in full from my checking each month. Last year it amounted to about $700 for free. Would you turn down a free $700 for not changing your spending habits or doing anything different other than using a different card?"